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ONLY 4.2V output ?
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#1 (permalink)      11/28/2021 10:47:31 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
iggibuh
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ONLY 4.2V output ?
For being a vape reviewer Tony B knows nada and is just slapping names on stuff for cheap money

He makes a 6V output squonker and now this...ONLY 4.2v

U need a 0.22ohms load to get 80w...What about someone using a lets say 0.5 or 0.8 ohm build

This is a joke UNLESS its a typo though it says the same on vandyvapes website ^^

Thought the vape community /ijoy) found out with their capo 4.2v output just wasent gonna cut it
#2 (permalink)      11/28/2021 1:40:25 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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I don't have this newer device, but I noticed the chip seems to be identical in looks to the Kylin AIO (great kit!) chipset/ UI. Thats means nothing without further investigation, but the Kylin enabled 5.5v in it's on-board Volts mode. It's actually a functional chip, with an "info" mode including puff counter.

This 4.2v output thing isn't too bad, Boro users rarely build below .35 or so....usually even higher...and that's where the regulating chip and adjustable wattage really matter. Think of Boro mods as 30-40 watt work-horses, and coil appropriately, in the .5-.6 range...OR, go full-on battery saver/single coil/high build mode...

It's not that you won't be CLOSE to 4 volts when you find your desired vape - you will. In most cases with more traditionally available wires, I've always found a spot between 3.5 - 4.5 volts...always. Everyone is different, but that "freight train" of a mech hit all the old-timers rave about: 4.2 volts. Straight from the battery!

Still, this is a sticking point that must be noticed by Companies. Most people want the OPTION to raise the warmth of a cool vape, or heat an especially stubborn flavor! I don't think V.Vape would make that mistake, and at least offer the 5.5 volt Kylin chip...so I hope those stats are wrong, but 4.2 volts would be fine for me, and I absolutely love the Green!
What does he mean when he says words?
#3 (permalink)      11/28/2021 2:26:02 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
SambaBugatti
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.... and I dislike an AIO that has a Weight of 150 Grams wthout Batteries and is nearly 100 mm high and more than 55 mm wide. We live in the 20s not 2015 anymore.
#4 (permalink)      11/28/2021 2:54:02 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
iggibuh
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carrion4worm wrote:

I don't have this newer device, but I noticed the chip seems to be identical in looks to the Kylin AIO (great kit!) chipset/ UI. Thats means nothing without further investigation, but the Kylin enabled 5.5v in it's on-board Volts mode. It's actually a functional chip, with an "info" mode including puff counter.

This 4.2v output thing isn't too bad, Boro users rarely build below .35 or so....usually even higher...and that's where the regulating chip and adjustable wattage really matter. Think of Boro mods as 30-40 watt work-horses, and coil appropriately, in the .5-.6 range...OR, go full-on battery saver/single coil/high build mode...

It's not that you won't be CLOSE to 4 volts when you find your desired vape - you will. In most cases with more traditionally available wires, I've always found a spot between 3.5 - 4.5 volts...always. Everyone is different, but that "freight train" of a mech hit all the old-timers rave about: 4.2 volts. Straight from the battery!

Still, this is a sticking point that must be noticed by Companies. Most people want the OPTION to raise the warmth of a cool vape, or heat an especially stubborn flavor! I don't think V.Vape would make that mistake, and at least offer the 5.5 volt Kylin chip...so I hope those stats are wrong, but 4.2 volts would be fine for me, and I absolutely love the Green!



5.5v would help out somewhat i just wonder why these companys cant do the right thing to begin with.

Putting a 1 ohm build in that thing with 4.2v caps you at 17.6w. so a MTL bridge/build wont do well unless u vape at that max wattage.

I have mods from 2015 that do 8-9v ;) dna40...evic vtc mini for example.

Build the mod so people can build as they like, not how the mods dictates imo

#5 (permalink)      11/28/2021 3:11:37 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Troepfler
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Can I put a 3 ohm building in, and wait thats the electronics steps up the volts to 80W ?
#6 (permalink)      11/28/2021 3:34:55 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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Yep, there was a time when the casual mod purchase didn't require as much research! Now it seems every company building 18650 mods feels the need to not include a boost circuit - which is nonsense, especially considering cost vs. consumer desires.

I feel EVERY regulated mod should at least have 5 or 6 volts usable output, whether it gets used or not.
What does he mean when he says words?
#7 (permalink)      11/28/2021 4:15:43 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Troepfler
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carrion4worm wrote:

I feel EVERY regulated mod should at least have 5 or 6 volts usable output, whether it gets used or not.


Mech mods have big big copper switches to manage the power.
These plastic mods have switches known from computers.
That works, but only for a year.
And that only works, if they keep the stress for the switch low.

#8 (permalink)      11/28/2021 10:27:42 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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?

Nonsense. Regulated mods don't need the button to be "big copper" to "manage power". The button is not a part of the electrical path like it is with many mechs.

I have DNA40 and 60 chips that are 9 volt and work fine - for years and years. I even have tons of cheaper Chinese mods that are high output with no problems whatsoever.
What does he mean when he says words?
#9 (permalink)      11/29/2021 12:18:58 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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dub09
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Troepfler wrote:

carrion4worm wrote:
I feel EVERY regulated mod should at least have 5 or 6 volts usable output, whether it gets used or not.
Mech mods have big big copper switches to manage the power.
These plastic mods have switches known from computers.
That works, but only for a year.
And that only works, if they keep the stress for the switch low.


That isn't how "Switches" work in VV/VW mods.

The switch on chip driven devices DO NOT act the same as the switches in mech mods.

Smoking is Dead, Vaping is the Future, and the Future is Now... So I will ask a percentage of your sales for each device review I do.
#10 (permalink)      11/29/2021 7:45:28 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Crispycritters
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The fire button on regulated is always live so it can recognise the 5 clicks on and off. But it does not carry much current - it tells the chip inside when to send power to the 510 but the full current sent to the 510 is sent directly from the board to the 510, it does not go via the tiny microswitch under the fire button.

Imagine a low powered switch that operates a separate high powered switch or a circuit breaker that carries the main current and you won't be far off the mark.

The real reason regulated mods frequently last is many vapers are cheap bastards (myself included) that don't want to pay for quality and look to pay £30 for a mod and expect it to have the same quality of build as a $60 from 3 or 4 years ago. To sell the manufacturers must find ways to sell cheaper - one of these routes is cheaper components.

Look forward to a future of pod mods and shitty disposables. Most vapers would rather buy a shit $30 battery voltage output pod mod and plastic tank every 3 months or an even shittier $5 disposable every day than spend $100+ on a device built with quality components.
#11 (permalink)      11/29/2021 8:04:58 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Troepfler
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dub09 wrote:

That isn't how "Switches" work in VV/VW mods.
The switch on chip driven devices DO NOT act the same as the switches in mech mods.


Sure, when they have good Mosfet(s) and the switching power is very low.
And, years ago, an asian specialist in this forum found the data sheet of the Atto switch:
the livetime was over within a year if used in the Atto.
This thread gives me the feeling,
companies want to build cheaper and cheaper.
And iggibuh payed 66$, same price for 3 mech mods.