I have ordered this atty but I know how mesh rta-s can be difficult.
Any advice about mesh (200,300, 400#...?), how you roll it to improve mesh capillary action (M roll, precuting mesh, two different mesh layers...?) etc
Also, any advice about wire is more than welcome :) (Steel rope, regular round wire...)

Coil/mesh building starts at the 7:58 mark.

I am sure someone on here can help, we have allot of old timers that have vaped since the mesh days.

The best I can do is tell you check youtube, but I am sure you already know to do that. Or if you were willing to dig around on this forum long enough you might find some good info in old posts. Personally I don't know what the newest info on mesh is. Good luck with it!

Thank you very much for your answers.
@djvillan
The reviewer in this video is using accordion mesh roll (synonym is M roll) which is quite basic method. I am not saying that it is non efficient but I am sure that there are much better ways to roll :)
Some of methods that come to my my mind regarding this atty are half to half and straw in straw. First thing I wanna try (when atty finally arrives) is 3 tiny 80# mesh straws (flatten or not depending on juice viscosity) wrapped with 200# ~ 300# mesh and with 0,3`~ 0,4 steel rope.
But that is a lot of experiment & try outs so it would be very useful if someone would share his (quality) setup for this atty.
Maybe someone from mother Russia..? :)

None of the stupid mesh tricks actually do anything. A simple roll with 300 will do as well as anything else. So will rope, but you'll want a wrap of mesh where the coil wraps just to improve the coil contact. As for wire, I always preferred a light ribbon, mostly because it's a lot less trouble when it comes to hot spots. (Yes, ribbon sucks when you want to put a wick through a coil, but when you're wrapping the coil around the wick, the fact that the wire doesn't hold its shape well doesn't factor in at all.)

@esselar
Simple roll, never did it for me. I can use it but than I must tilt my atty every couple of minutes and that is not my cup of tea. I know that it is possible to make simple roll, which wicks without tilting and I saw a few guys who can do it but I was never able to.
Stainless steel rope, wrapped with mash also did not get me anywhere. Wicking was so poor. I used 2mm SS rope. That was major disappointment, because I even bought special tool for ss rope cutting. What is the thickness of the rope you used? Did you use 1x19, 7x7 & 7x19...? Mine is 7x7.
On the other hand, when I put smaller roll of mesh in a bigger one, it tends to wick like crazy. With that kind of mesh setup I can easily rDl, because it wicks so well. And I wouldn't call that a trick, it is a basic physics. It is the same principle that is used in Cabeo rdta. Because of tendency to overwick in mtl setup I put 3 little straws in one bigger roll (without leaving much space between them).
Half by half mesh roll is, in my experience, the best and most universal and works almost every time (but that does not mean that it is best for a specific atty). If anybody is interested I can put a video made by inventor himself, but the video is in Russian and it was very hard for me to understand what he talks about (download subtitle, ggl translate).
I never thought of ribbon wire because I was afraid of hot spot frenzy. It seemed impossible to maintain constant contact between such large surface and mesh. I have some very light mtl ribbon and I will certainly try it out, but it seems to me that you have really superior rolling technique.

There were mesh days?

Tony215 wrote:

Indeed, but as a mainstream thing it was approximately the same period as silica/ekowool and worked a lot better. When we went to cotton (or rayon, hemp, etc.) and microcoils, and accepted that wicks didn't have to last as long as "the build", things got a whole lot easier. There were tradeoffs with flavour, especially on a brand-new wick, but for most users they were worth it. Still, when a well-set-up Genny is on tune, you can't beat it for "sharper" flavours (bright fruits, tobaccos with fermentation notes, that sort of thing).

As for the cable/mesh thing - go bigger. 2mm cable? Try 3mm (or 1/8"). Using mesh? Use more mesh. It doesn't need to be a straw - it's not the straw that does the wicking, it's the little gaps between the wraps, so a fat roll that's not overly tight will work better than a thin, tight roll with a great big hole down the middle. (The hollow centre does come into play once it gets very small, but you can get a very small centre with a single sheet and no tomfoolery.) 7x19 cable works a little bit better with very thin e-liquids (70%+ PG), but 7x7 wicks like crazy with anything normal people use these days. The Cabeo/Kumo work because the cylindrical tube is very narrow, not because it's a tube. That's what capillary action is. You're relying on surface adhesion and the liquid's surface tension between two closely spaced surfaces.

Thanks to this thread, I’m now curious about wicking with mesh, something I’ve never tried.
Would you guys give me advice on which atty would be a reasonable entry point into this brave new world ? Is the s21 a good one ?

I should probably add that I do mostly mtl and enjoy fairly restricted 0.8/1.0 airflow

It'll be as good as any, but 1.0mm is at tight as it gets. If you vape 50/50 or thinner, this 400 mesh SKU 2080200 is a nice size to work with; 300 in a smaller piece SKU 2114300 works well for 50/50 as well and for thicker juice. Note: you'll want to buy mesh elsewhere if you have any aims to try rolling on the bias or doing U-wicks in other tanks, since nothing sold here is big enough. (You can get it as "filter mesh" in 30cm x 30cm/1' by 1' sheets up to 54" by several hundred feet rolls. You, um, probably won't really need the latter option.)