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mine gets extremely hot ,fast
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#51 (permalink)      6/24/2019 12:20:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Among the few things that i like about Pulse 80 is the ability to sample the coil holding holding + and -, as many times as you want, anytime.

Steady reading = good contact. I sample the dvarw on pulse but use it on tesla because pulse is brutal, tesla is mellow hitting.

Tesla is a company that if you don't have problem with the mods, all is good. If you do, you will be ignored 100% like you do not exist. I only have tesla mods because price drops on promotions, otherwise i would not ever touch any of their products because they outdid themselves recently, horrible experience.

On atties that are known for resistance jump on poor contact, stellar example here being the VLS with it's counter cross threading on the detachable deck part, the poor contacts makes themselves immediately apparent by large variations in ohm on the Pulse.

Dvarv readings are rock solid which means good contact.

The issue in my dvarw seem to be poor heat dissipation, and i mean heat from coil to the posts and then to the base, and heat from vapor that hits the chimney + topcap. Even with a big heatsink + drip tip heatsink.

IMHO the metal quality in my dvarw is not as in other batches of the same sku. I am almost 100% sure this is actually the issue here.

If bad contacts were present then the atty would have manifest that in ugly ways, such as sudden jumps in wattage ( the worst dry hit in my life was a wye 85 went mad, raised the watts from 12 to 60 mid draw. Horrible memory, almost ER situation)

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 12:27 PM. Reason:
#52 (permalink)      6/24/2019 5:48:16 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
tengeresz56
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I have a feeling ! Both of You are between 14-16 in mind... ! Talking about the nothing. WHY cannot learn the basic to use the E-cig? Ohm's law and power and how it works... ??? You are talking about the golden pin ( 6-9 micron) Why? Clean that shit pin ! That's all. Please finish the stupid conversations here in FT ! Thanks.....

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 5:54 PM. Reason:
#53 (permalink)      6/24/2019 6:31:16 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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+1 details
The discussion was some mods like tesla wye and vandy vape need about 1 to 1.5 mm protruding 510 pin to make contact.

Tesla punk i think accepts the berserker with the pin unscrewed more than 1.5 mm.

On a tightened dvarw, the 510 is almost flush. Same situation as prime and integra.
#54 (permalink)      6/24/2019 6:48:29 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
tengeresz56
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VeeRay - Do You know what You are talking ? ..'510 pin to make contact'... the easiest way to DIY it if something is wrong with it... If it's problem for someone go back to use analoge cig ! Or ask a clever kid in the local kindergarten and He/She will tell You the right answer !!! Very sad to read such a kind stupid questions and problems ! KIDS ..... Use Your brain (if You have...) - Before You ask something learn the basic of e-cig. ! NOT about the cloud fucking and subohms because of your stupid friends - or better look after a pretty young lady... but do not ask what to do with her in MTL or in DL... ! - Do not forget to take Your stainless steel tube mod with you if Your own 18650 (or 350 :-) is Discharged...

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 8:01 PM. Reason:
#55 (permalink)      6/26/2019 2:27:25 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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+1 details
VeeRay,

I just tested mine with the smallest insert (0.8mm) and the thing gets "somewhat hot", but I wouldn't say "frying hot". (I put back my 1.0mm again since the 0.8mm is just a tiny bit too tight for me). I am thinking that the main reason for heat is something with airflow. I am not sure sure whether "heat dissipation" really matters.

I would suggest:

Checking your wick as it is possibly you do use too much, which could block airflow. (Just cut the ends like I described above at about the length of the atty, I'd say each end is about 1cm or so, not longer.

And double check whether your airflow insert is ok, maybe the hole is blocked with some crud? (Just guessing)

Alternatively, maybe your atty is really machined so poorly that lots of the air doesn't go through the hole but escapes beneath to the side? It's just really strange what is going on here.

(Also, I just double checked my coil, it's definitely quite some distance from the hole..I am guessing 2mm. So coil too close to the hole could also be a reason)

Edited on 6/26/2019 at 2:29 AM. Reason:
#56 (permalink)      6/26/2019 9:11:57 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Flexy, the wick is exactly like you describe, size and length.
The coil is sitting with the legs horizontal. No simpler way to describe it. 1.2 ohm @ 12 W, 28awg .
No crud in the airflow, i am using 1 and 1.2 mm.
I have no idea about the machining and i cannot do the repairs like in Gatok's picture.
Since it seems to be a technical problem maybe support will know.
Meanwhile i'd love to continue solving this but until support takes the garbage out of the thread so he can take his pill regularly, it ends here. Thanks everyone.
I'd like to ask support to lock this thread.
#57 (permalink)      8/12/2019 10:09:57 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
NeilWpgFT
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VeeRay said:

.. the metal quality in my dvarw is not as in other batches ..

This is actually a technically excellent theory -- it would explain the temperature rise quite well.

Maybe the factory received a bad (like overly resistive) batch of metal blocks that one time. Or maybe the factory uses different metals for different products, and the wrong (high or high ) material got substituted in.

These seem unlikely, but much stranger things have happened!

The theory can be tested, but you need someone with a fair bit of electrical/electronics competence, plus the right equipment.

I wondered about a low-tech procedure, and I came up with one:

1) get a few feet of normal (insulated conducting) wire, maybe 18-22ga. Ensure the insulation is nice and clean.
2) get a 2nd helper mod+RDA combo; no coil on this RDA.
3) Stop reading after this step so you can spend a minute trying to guess the next step.
4) I wasn't joking about step 3. final warning.
5) feed 2 lengths of the wire thru 1st RDA cap + tip. Use one length of wire to connect positive posts of the 2 RDAs; repeat for the two negative posts. (Obviously, strip just enough insulation off the 2x2 ends... normal electrical practice.)
6) For safety, RDA being tested should *not* be in a mod, or at least be unscrewed enough so no contact at 510 is guaranteed.
7) Fire the helper mod, and chain vape like crazy (lips will need to touch the insulation of the connecting wires -- no biggie.)

If RDA body stays cool, VeeRay's theory is strongly supported. If it gets hot, the different air-flow related theories are still on the table.

A variation on the above is to have the vape heating coil on the helper RDA, and the RDA of interest without a coil and connected to a mod. This way, you stress the RDA of interest *electrically only* -- zero hot vape moving within.

As is often the case, a lot could go wrong here, so it should be carried out by someone with basic electrical skill.

#58 (permalink)      8/13/2019 1:58:51 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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xauss
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didnt read much beyond the OP

is it just the atty getting hot or is the top of the mod near the 510 and surrounding area getting hot too?

if the latter it could be arcing between the atty and mods 510s. try disassembling and cleaning the 510 on the mod
assume the above is heavy on irony
#59 (permalink)      12/14/2019 1:56:40 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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Already old thread, but I found something:

You can actually remove the TOP part of the deck. There is not one single image of an entirely disassembled deck on the web. But I drew a pic.

1) Screw off all the screws of your dwarf.
2) With some plastic thingy (or a screwdriver), go into the large airhole on the side of the deck, and pop open the UPPER PART of the deck. It may not snap off right away, but you see a gap will forming and again with some tool like a screwdriver you can then carefully pop open the top part.
3) Pop out the insulators, with a pen tip or something. (Careful, don't scratch stuff)
4) You will see this large crank-shaped (90 degree angle) pin going from the underside into the deck, where it makes one of the two poles (where you fix the coil). This "crank-shaped" pin, which also goes into an insulator, turns, and you can actually remove it also. (You need tools for this, doesn't come out easily but it does)
5) The thing is, it can be that this one large pin is "too far in" or too far away. (Difficult to explain without a picture, but if you see it, you understand what I mean).
6) So if you are one of the few with a problem like heat, it is possible that this pin is not in the correct position
7)When you push that pin back in and reassemble the deck, flip the deck over on a flat desk and push, so that BOTH pins will be at exactly the same length coming from the deck. This will push the crank pin at the exact position. (Or use a ruler or something).

Why? I have a suspicion that it is POSSIBLE that this pin may not be sitting flush, and when this pin isn't lined up exactly as it should, this is what causes the problems as it messes everything up. (There are really no other moving/maintainable parts in the dvarw).

You can even "hear" a problematic Dwarv, as it start to make a more "airy" noise that is usually doesn't have, and then gurgling and whatsoever. With the above, you can fix it.

Edited on 12/14/2019 at 2:46 PM. Reason:
#60 (permalink)      12/14/2019 3:12:15 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Thanks Flexy.

Meanwhile i've bought 4 more black sets full kit from ft and one set SS with logo from another site - the logo was so it helps the Atto setup. It helps.

Few of them have the peek assembly so tight it can even stay on on their own, they just fall apart when separating the 2 parts of the deck.

So i have a lot of them to compare and indeed the inserts vary greatly. I vape only 0.8 , and on all of them - including the coppervape inserts, the vape is feeling like a 1 to 1.2 mm on a berserker mini or even 1 mm on berserker mini 1.5.

All of them draw air in some way or another around the inserts and i sanded a few down like gatok, but the problem persists- not enough of a hassle to stop me from enjoying them.

I wanna thank Gatok for his onest review of zerk 1.5 mini because of him alone i've bought 3, excellent, almost perfect.
It was also a way to repay Vandy Vape kindness, their support exceeded every expectation i had, wonderful people ( a zerk mini OG had issues with the deck base, fixed now)

My conclusion is not that the air that may or may not get around the inserts is causing the overheat, but the metal on some is different. The negative 510 threading is different. there is great inconsistency - as it is with the berserk themselves. I was very amused reading someone's comment on a zerk 1.5 clone that ( it draws air while closed). Newb. They all do. Except integra.

Thanks so much for all the help and i have now the SS set on an atto- it is absolutely stunning visually. Very happy i have my little army of dvarwves.

I do have one issue tho- because i am not a savvy mechanical person: no matter what i do ( i've bought the long 510 pins + little red orings to try to stick the positive 510 out just as much as on the zerk). no success. They sit flush.
I have a 18650 enneq. black matte, i made a mistake to screw the bottom so much as i indented the + pole on a 18650- so now there is a great chance i will contact the + with both + 510 pin and the "- "510 thread..... ( that 18650 is now safe inside the tesla punk/atto)

Edited on 12/14/2019 at 3:22 PM. Reason: