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mine gets extremely hot ,fast
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#41 (permalink)      6/22/2019 4:49:20 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
tengeresz56
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flexy123 - I mentioned that all the connection points (+-) must be CLEAN or they will warm up... This is true for everything.

Edited on 6/22/2019 at 4:51 AM. Reason:
#42 (permalink)      6/23/2019 7:48:12 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Flexy can you describe your fav method of wicking please?

The procedure you described with pliers and sharp knife to completely take the deck apart , i wish i had that skill, i want to remove one of the berserker mini v1 press-fit AFC and replace the o-ring, can't even do that.

The temp got down to berserker hot for me with the coppervape 1mm ( which does not feel 1 mm but 1.2) , but it's still far from "luke warm " some of the guys here mentioned.

( The berserker has a way to...well.. gets hot chain vaped brutally, but at some point it won't get any hotter. Dvarw and integra seem to get hotter and hotter until you decide it's time to use an USB fan or else...)

Thanks a lot
#43 (permalink)      6/23/2019 3:04:18 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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Take out ALL the screws first. Use a knife and then pry apart the upper and the lower part. This is still relatively easy.

When I first tried to remove the pins , they seemed to be fixed. But at the second attempt I was able to. (Grab that middle at the plastic part with pliers, you can rotate it. And then carefully rotate and pull out with the pliers. Carefully to not break the plastic. And you can also push out the insulators. On the other hand, you don't even need to pull stuff out if you're just gonna put everything back in anyway. Just know that the middle pin rotates and it COULD be that it's not in all the way, or it's POSSIBLE the round insulator isn't in all the way.)

And of course..this general advice...make sure all screws are on nicely tight.

All I can say to you that my Dvarw also got silly hot initially, but now it barely does.

Wicking: Cut a ca. 0.8cm strip from your cotton. Basically, as much cotton as you can fit into a (2.4-2.5mm) coil. (With my KFL I always stripped the cotton sides, but here I don't.) Then slightly roll. Push through coil.

Then, I stopped overthinking, no fancy technique or whatever. Just cut each side about the end of the atty. Use a needle/pick and fan out the ends a bit. Then simply stuff down then ends in front of the holes, straight. Make sure there are no gaps and that the cotton covers the gaps.

The key I think is really to use as much cotton as you can so you get a nice, wide wick which however still fits through the coil without needing much force and NOT too tight either.

Edit: Here's an image of the lower deck taken apart, courtesy Gatok.



(This is the only image I know of that shows the Dvarw entire disassembled. Know that in my case, when I took apart the base, the pin wasn't attached to the bottom like in the pic, but instead it was in the upper part inside the insulator.

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 5:28 PM. Reason:
#44 (permalink)      6/23/2019 3:19:10 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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It is also likely that you want to look into your height of the coil above hole. Middle of coil should be about the height of the top of the screws - so that the coil sits about 1-1.5mmm above the hole.

Hot atty suggests something bad with airflow, and coil too far down could be another reason, IMO.

Also..with the Dvarws, you will notice there are two kinds of inserts. The standard inserts which came with mine where the smallest are sorta "pointed" on the upper side around the hole. And the CV inserts which are flat around the hole.

I have not used the flat ones yet and I don't know whether there is a diff, I am using the second smallest with the "pointy" hole.

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 3:22 PM. Reason:
#45 (permalink)      6/23/2019 6:32:23 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
tengeresz56
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Gatok knows what he's doing, speaking and a clever vaper + He has a perfect camera! (thanks for all) We sent all informations and pictures before, about the Dvarw wicking etc. Have to read back before ask! First You have to learn it, understand it, practice it before You want to teach it... sorry. The "extremely hot" is user error !

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 7:25 PM. Reason:
#46 (permalink)      6/23/2019 7:44:41 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Wow Flexy that's a wealth of information! It's awesome you've managed to revert from silly hot to normal temp. My only normal temp regardless of build ( except SS flat wire) is hadeon in waspeon mode. Luke warm all the way.

I am afraid to do the insulator operation, especially since this version ( black 5 ml, single tank all inserts) already started to lose the paint just by wiping it gently with a microfiber... Also mine doesn't look quite like the one in the pic. Thanks a lot tho , just ...amazing skill, kudos to Gatok and you.

I have a similar technique of coil positioning ( like on berserker, , 1.2-1.5 mm above airflow), as for wicking i was doing it like Bussardo so a bit more cotton than you describe, but i did it because i saw what Dvarw wants.

Dvarw, i think, wants to do a pancake roll for you without you doing it (Integra wants/forces that too but on micro-scale). Hence the lack of dry-hits and excellent wicking on dvarw imo.

[ I was looking into all these rolls, and since i learned how to properly do a scottish roll i gave up squonking entirely because you can have like 9 different aromas on the table and drip as you desire, 15 puffs till next drip, no need for changing squonker bottles/squonk mod.

My fav flavor chaser is Oumier VLS dual vert simple round ni80 26Ga on a 3 mm, kendo gold cotton, the flavor and smoothness of airflow smashes - for me - everything i ever owned/tasted, including flave, hadaly , entheon, integra, wasp, rebirth, intake, supreme v2.1, gear, among others. A tier above.
It also gets impossibly hot, actually, the hottest, but i cool it with a wet paper towel ]

I reverted to the default insert 1.2 and 1mm, and it's back to frying temperatures, didn't even change the coil/wick. 12 W @ 1.2 ohm. The pointy one. It is tastier than the flat coppervape ones, but, yeah ^

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 7:57 PM. Reason:
#47 (permalink)      6/23/2019 7:54:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
tengeresz56
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VeeRay - 10-12 W @ 1.2 ohm 1.2-1.5 mm above airflow output spaced coil 6-7 turns 2-2,5mm inside diameter is prefect! Flat wire is shit. (I use only 0,3mm Kanthal 'A' - but dependes on You) That's it. Quite simple :-) Good mechanical properties easy to rebuild it and good flavour. That's what we need in good price (Thanks for FT!) . No logo and other junks :-) - Thanks for Your comment. - We were talking too much about Dvarw. It's simply good and one of the best MTL RTA in the last 2 years....

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 8:21 PM. Reason:
#48 (permalink)      6/23/2019 9:04:44 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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Yeah something is off. I am at 13.5W (I usually stay below 13W. It gets barely warm, and I am chain vaping. Can you do a photo of your deck w/ coil and wick? I can see that simply stuffing "too much" into it would also block airflow and then heat it up. (I cut mine really just so you can bend down the ends and then set down).

The taking apart of the lower deck was just a suggestion, it could well be it hasn't anything to do with the heat.

Remember, I was the one who at first had big problems wicking it since it gurgled and flooded - this was also when it got hot. (Logical, since the flooding blocked airflow as well). Did you double-check all your screws being tight? What coil are you using? (I am using standard 28g Kanthal A1, 2.4mm and previously always did 8 wraps...now I am doing 6 wraps since this heats the coil faster...says 1.18 Ohms right now. And with a regulated mod Ohms don't really matter even for MTL, although I am shooting for above 1 Ohm.

Edited on 6/23/2019 at 9:13 PM. Reason:
#49 (permalink)      6/24/2019 6:32:12 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Flexy, i am pretty much 95% of time using a 1.2 ohm, ni80 28awg, 2,5mm ID,slightly spaced, on every mtl . Tesla punk set on bypass so 13.something Watts. Coil set like you have it set. Atty disassembled ( but not down to the plastic peek level), all screws tight as i could -

(Which raises a big question. I have it on a 2$ heatsink. dvarw pushes that HS negative pin out A LOT.

But dvarw in itself, 510 tightened to max, has the 510 not protruding at all,unreadable by most of my mods.
What do if i want to set it on an sxk atto?. On the berserker i just adjust the gold plated 510 pin to protrude as much as i need, but on this?)

Wicking is enough to cover the juice port but i do a sort of pancake fluff just around the oval intake, without the cotton leaving the chamber through it.

So, not over wicked, the air circulates well around and under the coil, which is also not raised nor dropped just 1.5 mm above, legs horizontal flush with the posts.

It's a black dvarw, my camera is playing " get a new phone" with me.

Never gurgled , or flooded, and not a hint of dry hit.

I tend to draw long draws tho , 70/30 liquid, double or triple draws, cause that's how I can draw sufficient vapor for my taste.

I agree with you that something is wrong, it's not the first atomizer I've got from here that gives me the impression ( certitude ?) they actually sell quite a lot of refused QC items, even for cloner standard.


I've spent a lot of time researching the other "defective" RDA too, the only reason i dropped this question about the Dvarw here was this atty has an immense following here - and for good reason, i would buy 4-5 more hot or not, it's tasty and pleasant to use - and it was something i've never read about, it getting glowing hot that is.

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 6:56 AM. Reason:
#50 (permalink)      6/24/2019 11:25:21 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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Seems like I am vaping pretty much the same way as you.

As for 510 pin, it's totally the opposite for me (Evic Mini Vtwo): The large gold pin on the Berserker standing out causes the atty to wobble. I just removed the gold pin from the Berserker and put a small Dvarw pin in there, now the Berserker sits solid, perfect. (But I know this depends on atty). From what I remember, the Berserker comes with a spare larger gold pin. This may or may not work on the Dvarw? (Might also short out the Dvarw, but worth a try). "glowing hot" sorta concerns me, to be honest. You could also try loosing the 510 pin a bit, maybe 1/2-1 turn to make it stick out a little more? Maybe poor contact with the mod is the reason for the heat?

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 11:26 AM. Reason:
#51 (permalink)      6/24/2019 12:20:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
VeeRay
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Among the few things that i like about Pulse 80 is the ability to sample the coil holding holding + and -, as many times as you want, anytime.

Steady reading = good contact. I sample the dvarw on pulse but use it on tesla because pulse is brutal, tesla is mellow hitting.

Tesla is a company that if you don't have problem with the mods, all is good. If you do, you will be ignored 100% like you do not exist. I only have tesla mods because price drops on promotions, otherwise i would not ever touch any of their products because they outdid themselves recently, horrible experience.

On atties that are known for resistance jump on poor contact, stellar example here being the VLS with it's counter cross threading on the detachable deck part, the poor contacts makes themselves immediately apparent by large variations in ohm on the Pulse.

Dvarv readings are rock solid which means good contact.

The issue in my dvarw seem to be poor heat dissipation, and i mean heat from coil to the posts and then to the base, and heat from vapor that hits the chimney + topcap. Even with a big heatsink + drip tip heatsink.

IMHO the metal quality in my dvarw is not as in other batches of the same sku. I am almost 100% sure this is actually the issue here.

If bad contacts were present then the atty would have manifest that in ugly ways, such as sudden jumps in wattage ( the worst dry hit in my life was a wye 85 went mad, raised the watts from 12 to 60 mid draw. Horrible memory, almost ER situation)

Edited on 6/24/2019 at 12:27 PM. Reason: