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Very prone to flooding, much more finicky to wick than I thought.
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#1 (permalink)      5/30/2019 8:25:20 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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Very prone to flooding, much more finicky to wick than I thought.
UPDATE after several days of testing and experimenting and with the help of this (great) community:

The issue seems really be the wicking. It needs much more cotton, than say a KFL+ or any atty I know. Cut ca. 0.8cm wide strip piece of my Muji, no striping the sides of the cotton like I usually do. Roll. Try to get through my 2.4mm coil, then cut to length of about 24mm and tuck down in front of the holes. There can't be any openings to the outside. Which is a little finicky with the large, oval holes, but can be done if the wick is thick enough. For now, this seems to work.

Ty!
**

People rave about this atty so I got one as well. (I am a long-time KFL+ vaper and I also have a Berserker, KF V3 and V5).

I expected the Dvarw MTL an uncomplicated RTA that just works, but it isn't. I am not new to RTAs, coil building and wicking. But this thing is extremely finicky when it comes to wicking. 7/10 times it clogs and floods my tank.I am sitting at this for 3 days now with the help of people from ecigarette-forum, gettings tips on how to wick this right. Wick just straight down, to cover the juice holes etc...etc.. But it's still flooding sometimes. I didn't expect it that finicky, at all.

Maybe that atty is not suitable for chain vaping. Maybe low MTL Wattage (13W) is not hot enough to wick enough juice away. Maybe something else. All I know is that after several puffs, it starts to clog, gurgle and then flood. Strangely, no one in any reviews has mentioned this.

As much I would like this atty, at this point it's entirely unuseable to me, also after several rewicks and changing Orings. I am sitting here with my mod covered in juice with a tissue to wipe off the juice.

In case you wonder: Normal wicking like you see in videos/images, japanese cotton cut so you slightly bend down the wick and put it down in front of the juiceholes, with the juiceholes sorta covered. I haven't tried other methods like with the wick coming out of the holes yet.

Update: I tried *everything* under the sun to find what is causing the flooding, but it still is.

What I tried:

* Different wicking techniques, all sorts. Covering the holes, stick through the holes, S shape, fanning out on the side.
* Different coil
* Replace all orings with orings from bag
* Entirely disassembled the unit, including the base (lower and upper). Checking for faults, reseating insulators.
* Replace airflow inserts with others
* Wash/Clean the unit

Edited on 6/6/2019 at 10:27 PM. Reason:
#2 (permalink)      5/30/2019 8:49:58 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
stuartd
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Never had any problems wicking with mine and could go alot higher in watts (25-30w's) than wat I would normally go as I used it for mtl around 12-15w's it can be abit of a pain to wick but once you get it right it's a great rta.
#3 (permalink)      5/30/2019 8:54:45 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
stuartd
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Never had any problems wicking with mine and could go alot higher in watts (25-30w's) than wat I would normally go as I used it for mtl around 12-15w's it can be abit of a pain to wick but once you get it right it's a great rta. If you can could and wick a kfl just do it the same way with the dvarw put 5he coil in and put the cotton in and then the juice barrel peice with the cotton coming out of the you and gut close to the edge push the cotton down add juice and then just play with the cotton till it sits against the juice holes don't stuff it right in to tight also make sure the coils isn't to far down either
#4 (permalink)      5/30/2019 9:19:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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airwinny
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It's almost impossible to have this flood on you, unless something is wrong with it.

Probably silly, but maybe there's an o-ring missing? This chimney piece, does it have 3 o-rings? One on the bottom, one on the top, and one in between the two parts?


Edited on 5/30/2019 at 9:19 PM. Reason:
#5 (permalink)      5/30/2019 9:22:32 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
bne83
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no wicking issues with me, but the draw on this rta is so damn turbulent , only way i find is to shove a small wad of cotton into afc so it's halfway blocked and that gets me a half decent smooth vape. Im sticking with my KF Prime/Galaxies/Doggy for now
#6 (permalink)      5/30/2019 9:44:22 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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airwinny wrote:

It's almost impossible to have this flood on you, unless something is wrong with it.Probably silly, but maybe there's an o-ring missing? This chimney piece, does it have 3 o-rings? One on the bottom, one on the top, and one in between the two parts?



yes it has


Edited on 5/30/2019 at 9:45 PM. Reason:
#7 (permalink)      5/30/2019 10:36:19 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
klynnn
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I've been having the same problem as above. I finally left long tails of a lot more cotton than i normally use for my subtanks and wrapped them around the whole deck. Please if anyone is able to show a photo of your deck with dry cotton wicked I'd apprciate it.
#8 (permalink)      5/30/2019 11:13:22 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Gatok
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#9 (permalink)      5/30/2019 11:19:08 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
flexy123
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I am glad I found at least one person with the same problem...I am already doubting my own sanity.

I could speculate now what's going on, but I suspect a design flaw...that maybe it's not flooding as most people vape with high VG - and it's more flooding with people who vape with 60/40 or 50/50. (Of course, this is just a guess).

My hunch would then that the oval airholes are simply too big, and TBH compared my KFL with tiny juice channels takes everything I throw on it without any issues. Because of that I cannot understand why these holes must be so big. As one single person (!!) on ecig forum pointed out

"
that you're relying on the surface tension of the wick/juice at the wicking holes to prevent the juice from the tank from flooding into the deck. This makes it more sensitive and susceptible to temperature changes. I learned this from leaving it in my hot car for a very short time. Juice expanding in the tank flooded into the deck/coil area
"

I also noted that it may draw ok at first, but that setting it down for some time then also triggers flooding. SOMETHING is off with that device.

The solution with just plugging a lot of cotton in there may work (haven't tried tho), but it seems like a solution which doesn't really address the underlying problem (eg. that the chamber is too open and that only the cotton stops the juice to get in)

Anyway..I now stuffed more layers of cotton into my existing build. Another thinkable solution would be to use a mesh or similar (pipe screen?) or some other (heat-resistant) way to reduce juice flow somehow.

(I can almost certainly exclude a defect with my device, oring etc. all seem alright, it's tight when I close the airflow hole and suck. Machining is not "super great" but is ok, can also exclude.

Also: Your method with simply more cotton (basically really stuffing the chamber) seems to work for now.

Edited on 5/30/2019 at 11:20 PM. Reason:
#10 (permalink)      5/30/2019 11:23:11 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Jgoff1
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It is definitely finicky to wick, on lower builds .5 ohms or lower I get dry hits. I mainly use the dvarw for mouth to lung. I think the kayfun are easier to build and wick
#11 (permalink)      5/30/2019 11:36:03 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
klynnn
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Once I got it to stop leaking it's actually a pretty nice vape. I notice in the photo from Gatok that it looks like the air holes are in the base shown as it appears there is some cotton sticking out. I have the top with oval holes so tell me how do you get the cotton out of the holes once you put the top cap on...maybe I'm missing something. I too think maybe the oval holes are too big. I have three more of these coming so will see if all are the same. For now I'll just keep stuffing the chamber with cotton.