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Resin or POM version
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#1 (permalink)      3/12/2021 8:46:21 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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RattyRat
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Resin or POM version
For real now, which one should i get?
SKU 9621907
SKU 9619654

Edited on 3/12/2021 at 8:47 PM. Reason:
#2 (permalink)      3/12/2021 9:24:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
bangaroo
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RATTY/RAT..// I'm using 2 x resin as I post to you // been 3yrs now I use 2 different flavours // big hitters there are no dings bangs or scratcher's on the resin body so far / have not owned a pom version / but me thinks the resin body version appearance wise after all my use holds up very well / I imagine that both versions would hit the same / mec squonkers 4ever/ cheers
#3 (permalink)      3/12/2021 9:42:20 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
bangaroo
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RATTY/RAT // battery description shows 18650 or 20700 / I'm using Samsung 30t double rap 21700 in the resin version not sure about the pom version // cheers again ...
#4 (permalink)      3/13/2021 3:47:33 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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The bodies are the same material, despite being listed differently. the only real difference is one has a brass 510 pin and the other is nickel coated or something silver. If you are good with mechs, go for it! They hold 21700 Samsungs, but not many other older 21700s. As, long as you have Samsung or Molicell 21700s, they fit. Basen, Golisi, Litokalla, Avatar etc, WILL NOT FIT.

Battery cap is fussy, needs to stay dry and clean, as this is a constant contact switch. Pressing the button makes connection inside the switch, so use good batteries and dont overtighten cap. The bottle is decent, other bottles can be used if they are 18mm diameter or less....much more and the bottle wont fit beneath the squonk door. The door has good magnets that hold well.

The 510 must be manually adjusted...I recommend "set it and forget it" and use a specific rda, to keep adjusting to a minimum. Some of the clones have had oversized threads, which will result in pin movement and poor conductivity. I had one faulty one, with lots of slop in the threads - NO GOOD! These are great mods for the money, pretty accurate clones, and can work well with knowledge of building and safety. The body is well machined, and all parts go together well..These leak a bit, but a o-ring can mitigate the issue upon disassembly of the mod.
What does he mean when he says words?
#5 (permalink)      3/13/2021 6:11:53 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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RattyRat
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Thank you the answers, I read the discussions and it appeared that the 2 version are not from the same manufacturer so i afraid if they have different problems, and one is worse than the other. But if only 510 pin different than i probably go for the silver-ish one I guess (resin version SKU 9621907 )
at first i probably us it with Samsung 30Q or Samsung 25R6M, since I only have these... but may or may not get some Molicel P42A, or Samsung 30T/40T.
I just hope the threads will be ok, I love the appearance of this mod! I that it's heavy as a brick.
Thanks again for both of you!
#6 (permalink)      9/20/2021 10:06:34 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Kilzz
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carrion4worm wrote:


The 510 must be manually adjusted...I recommend "set it and forget it" and use a specific rda, to keep adjusting to a minimum. Some of the clones have had oversized threads, which will result in pin movement and poor conductivity. I had one faulty one, with lots of slop in the threads - NO GOOD! These are great mods for the money, pretty accurate clones, and can work well with knowledge of building and safety. The body is well machined, and all parts go together well..These leak a bit, but a o-ring can mitigate the issue upon disassembly of the mod.



I just bought the black one with the silver/nickle 510 and some magnets for the switch. I have had the red version for years and it has some slop in the brass 510 pin. Not enough to make it unusable, but its a pain to replace atty's or do a through cleaning as the pin will move. I keep a narda clone on it permanently. Adding the oring is a must! I hope the nickle 510 pin isnt as loose.