The build essellar suggested is exactly what I did for years and a couple of generations of Kayfuns. It just worked perfectly every time.

Some people like to position the coil diagonally and use a thin piece of cotton that they bend back and stick to the positive block to form some kind of an 's' (hence s-wick method). This is what the inventor suggested when those atties came out and everybody was wicking with silica or ekowool.

I liked the 2.5mm AWG28 Kanthal coil better as a perpendicular contact coil (about 1.5-2mm above the airhole) and learned wicking it (with cotton) by watching a youtube video by cloud50 (a guy who was known for drilling out the air channels of Kayfuns to loosen the draw a bit in a time before open draw tanks). He just fluffed up the cotton ends a lot and filled the pockets to both sides of the positive block generously with the fluffed up cotton (if you pushed the cotton in a bit too much just pull it up again a milimeter or two so that the ends sit gently on top of the deck and don't bunch up).

This worked perfectly for me with the KFL+ v2 to the V4 and the Mini V3 I've bought for my mom. I never experienced any flooding and the only time I ever had the slightest problem with dry hits was in winter time with the KFL and 60VG juice when the eliquid was too thick to get through a narrow spot between the chamber and the plastic window of the tank of the nano kit (In normal mode the window sits higher so there is no narrow spot, but I liked the flavour of the nano kit better).


edit: All that being said, I have to admit that I preferred the V4 though because it got rid of the single tubed L-shaped airflow channel and pulled the air from all four sides resulting in a smoother draw. The Mini v3 is probably the most hassle-free way to vape a Kayfun and it kept the airflow of the V4. I personally wouldn't get the Prime because I find it's way to adjust the draw inferior to the way it was done in previous models, no matter if you prefer the KFL or the V4/V3 Mini.