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#21 (permalink)      11/30/2017 10:30:18 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
  • JoinedSep 2013
  • Posts 3752
  • Reviews 6
  • Kudos5454

I don't have one of these but at a guess I would say it more to do with the tube and battery cap threading that is causing the voltage drop as the 510 and contacts look fine.

I don't have the Venom X either... But, if the switch is getting hot, it's the culprit of the voltage drop. The switch is actually becoming part of the load in the circuit...

It has to be providing/allowing a resistance in continuity to heat up like that... Just a guess, but more than likely, not enough surface to surface contact area creating a "resistive choke point" to the flow of current.

Some pics of the switch assembly would be helpful...

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#22 (permalink)      12/14/2020 3:33:56 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
  • JoinedAug 2017
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  • Reviews 261
  • Kudos1172
Wow, this was a fun read. Not a lot of mech experience, but things like this are how you learn. I bought a couple of these from a vendor that was unloading old stock for 10.00 each. That is a fantastic price, as the build quality is incredible, and rivals the original, as far as looks. The problem lies in the unknown metal YTFK used as a firing plate. It does not carry current well at all, much like The S.O.B. squonk clone.

Good news is it's an easy fix, if you're handy and know how mechs work. I replaced the plate with thin copper, which makes a great conductor AND solves the stiff fire button. Simply sand the plate thinner until the button press is to your liking...just not too thin.

This is a killer mod with a little "modding" get to work!
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