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What are these 510 to 510 adapters good for?
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#1 (permalink)      3/11/2014 7:32:57 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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What are these 510 to 510 adapters good for?
Along with some other small parts (mostly from FT) this :)








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#2 (permalink)      3/11/2014 8:24:33 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Bizzarbenz
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Very nice, i have some chi-you flat top caps in cart waiting for a free paycheck to use for a few projects.

What board do you have in there?

Don't know where to get dc step down that can pull over 20a that isn't the size of your hand by any chance?
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#3 (permalink)      3/11/2014 8:38:11 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Hrawk
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I used one for a pass through recently.

#4 (permalink)      3/11/2014 8:42:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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These are running much like a mech as far as voltage goes (straight battery) with very little voltage drop. This will run 6amp which is my battery max (EH 14500). I run 1.2ohm coils in the RGM2's.

The board is home built using a IRL3103 mosfet for switching so I can use the 90 degree tactile switch. The LED was added later so I could see the juice level in the dark.

I pulled out the bread board and ordered some more small parts and intend to toy more with these ideas. The cost of the smaller one is 4 dollars not including battery and atty add about a dollar more for the larger one.

They fit in the hand very comfortable with only the atty tip protruding. Very light weight.
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#5 (permalink)      3/11/2014 8:44:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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The rest of the setup before being put into an enclosure.

Running 3.33ohm coil gives me adjustable voltage from 0-10v (0-30watt).

#6 (permalink)      3/11/2014 9:03:05 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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I have been toying with my own 110v version. Not happy with the prebuilt board and the amp limits.

16 volt 4.5 amps feed into the board but it is limited to 3 amps out.


Edited on 3/11/2014 at 9:05 PM. Reason:
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#7 (permalink)      3/11/2014 9:10:51 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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I really wasn't worried about the 3A limit of the board as I can easily push 10v out.

Considering I usually vape at around 8-10 watts, I have plenty of overhead.

If you're going to use one of those LM2596 boards, be sure to use the low ripple version. Provides a much smoother vape without as much hissing.

SKU 1253701



Nothing more than an extra capacitor and inductor on the output but it does wonders for smoothing out the ripple voltage.
#8 (permalink)      3/11/2014 9:17:28 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Much better design... How did I miss that one right here at FT to boot! My idea for the 110v supply is to build one that can go all the way sub and up. I may end up stacking a few of these. Thanks for the heads up.
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#9 (permalink)      3/11/2014 10:09:04 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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I was considering building a 110 with a 5v 40a converter from the bay of E using SKU 1490600 and SKU 1175900. Also in the works is a non-VV non-mech using 4 30a 18650 with a 12-24v to 5v 40a. I personally don't care about changing the voltage/wattage, I just want a constant vape at a high power. I have found when you go over about 8 volts you start to scorch your juice, unless you have super low ohms which is pointless to me, so 5v at about .3 ohm is good. I just need some bigger attys to fit more coil in now. Need to make some friends with a cnc.
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#10 (permalink)      3/11/2014 10:23:06 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Hrawk
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A friend of mine recently asked me to build him a MASSIVE power vape machine.

Not wanting to go over the top or anything, I used an adjustable voltage (12.6V @ 30A continuous, 40A burst) controller. I think 400+ watt should shut him up if not kill him outright :)
#11 (permalink)      5/20/2014 5:42:22 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Warrick
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LOL 400 watts why doesn't he just tip the juice into a kettle instead haha
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