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#1 (permalink)      4/13/2014 6:20:34 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
cris_at_home
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Not sure about the charge quality
I've stopped using this one and use SKU 1270407 now instead (just a dollar more).
I had the IMPRESSION (can't measure) that my batteries got less capacity after using this charger. I then noticed that at the end of the charge this charger seem to behave different compared to an original Joyetech eGo charger.

First, how a good charger works (if you like you can find here more details: CC/CV Charging):
1) Starts to charge with full output. For a typical eGo charger this is 420 mA.
2) Reaches a limit (let's say 4.15V) and starts to lower the mA output.
3) As the battery cell voltage raises and raises, the charger continuously lowers the output more and more...
4) There's an ongoing change between charging and measuring the cell voltage (so the charger knows where the cell voltage is after an charge phase)

Original Joyetech charger:
You can view the charge pattern described above by watching the LED changing between red/green/red/green/... The red-phases (charge) become notable shorter and shorter which is a good sign.

This charger:
Has even near the end of charge very long red-phases. This COULD mean the charger overcharges the cell, which will do the cell no favor, and could explain my impression of capacity loss. It MAY not do 4) often enough and/or MAY not do a good job at 3).


But... it may be all b*llsh*t, as I can't MEASURE how exactly this charger charges. But at $1 price difference I decided to take no risk on my batteries and bought SKU 1270407 instead. That one behaves visually very similar to my original Joyetech chargers.

It would be cool if someone with the right equipment and knowledge could test this charger (and SKU 1270407) and prove me hopefully wrong.
I've searched Google, but it seems no one did a charge curve test so far.
Btw, http://lygte-info.dk is a very good site with tests for chargers/batteries.

Edited on 4/13/2014 at 6:22 AM. Reason: made links clickable
#2 (permalink)      4/13/2014 9:41:16 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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viking65
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My father has this charger for his EGO's and it does actually charge his batteries to 4.2V.

I have tested his batteries with a multimeter after they were fully charged. ;)
http://i.imgur.com/fKSQtVA.jpg..........You self made victims crack me up. =D
#3 (permalink)      4/14/2014 12:58:25 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Skeeeets
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i have received this charger a few days ago - and i can attest it seems to not charge completely.

with this charger, i charged an ego. the light turned green and i let it sit for another hour. hour passed and it was still green. so i took it off and put the ego on an old ego charger, the light was red for another 10-15 mins before that turned green. im assuming this ego charger has "super protection" as to NEVER full charge an ego incase of slight over charge/explode.
In a drop top Chevy with the roof wide open, my partners looking at me to see if my eyes open cause I've been drankin and I've Been smokin'
#4 (permalink)      4/14/2014 6:35:06 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
cris_at_home
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@viking65: The possible issue is not what the final volt-value after charging is. The issue is what happens during the charge, especially in the end phase of charging.
A charger does not charge & measure at the same time. It is constantly switching between charging & measuring what the current cell value is.
The original Joyetech charger (and SKU 1270407) switches these modes about every second, to make sure the cell goes not beyond 4.2V during the charge. Also the mA output is (ideally) more and more reduced the closer the cell gets to 4.2V.

This charger SEEM to have too long charge phases (does not test often enough where the cell value is). It MIGHT also not reduce the mA output in the end phase of the charge.
Again, I'm speculating! No one knows what really happens until someone measures this charger DURING the charge.
For me, it makes just no sense to take any risks at $1 price difference. Batteries are more valuable than this.

@Skeeeets: different issue but interesting that we meet here again. :-)) So it was THIS charger, I see... ;-)
Might be that the quality of the electronic components varies. Your's might stop the charge too early, other's might end too late. The latter is the worse since that degrades the cell's lifetime.

I get the impression it's a good idea to always buy the second-cheapest devices at FT. ;-) Vendors can't use good quality materials in the cheapest devices, they need to make money too.
#5 (permalink)      4/14/2014 8:10:25 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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viking65
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cris_at_home

Maybe FT was better quality when he bought it back in October as it seems to charge same way as his other charger does and you are describing(shorter phases). shrug

Also seems some get duds of these chargers which you may have gotten one of. So really it is hard to tell unless you have a few of the same one to see if it is an issue with just one or all of them.

Wouldn't be the first time FT has changed vendors or quality of the items sold here. >.<

But your right no one can tell without actually measuring the charger itself. I can only tell you the lights seem to work just like his original one did and that it does stop at full charge (4.19v to 4.21v to be exact depending on the battery KGO/EGO).

Not sure if cloned batteries might have something to do with it as he still has his original branded batteries Joyetech EGO and KGO SLB (Sailebao).

Edited on 4/14/2014 at 8:11 AM. Reason:
http://i.imgur.com/fKSQtVA.jpg..........You self made victims crack me up. =D
#6 (permalink)      4/14/2014 9:09:15 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Amiga72
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Ok i`m gonna churp in here as i have serveral of the 25cm lenght ones and can say after opening serveral (slighty different labels on back) that they range from excellent to down right crap (2 gone bad in under 48 hours due to faulty IC that gets stuck in one mode and has to be grounded to reset)

i also have two original ego chargers and serveral others and can only use certain ones with certain bats due to compatibility with the bats IC board.

so what i`m saying is its a try it and see type

I think FT should put on the bats and chargers a manufactures marker doesn`t have to identify the manufacturer but alongs the line of

-------------------------------

sku:63000001
usb charger ego
manuf: FTa1

sku:36000003
usb charger ego
manuf: FTa2

sku:91002000
battery 900mah ego
manuf:FTa2

sku:13000001
battery 1100mah ego twist
manuf:FTa1

sku:12000101
battery 1300mah ego
manuf:FTa2

-------------------------------

only FT would know the manufacturer identity but we`d have a way of identifing compatible stuff by using the manuf: code

Edited on 4/14/2014 at 9:17 AM. Reason:
#7 (permalink)      4/14/2014 12:52:08 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Skeeeets
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what wierds me out... sometime this charger has to be "shorted" before it lets me charge(touch the threads and center post with metal)...

and the sticker that came "on" it was half peeled and folded over on itsself, and revealed "info" under the sticker.... so the sticker was redundant...
In a drop top Chevy with the roof wide open, my partners looking at me to see if my eyes open cause I've been drankin and I've Been smokin'
#8 (permalink)      4/16/2014 4:36:07 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
cris_at_home
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@viking65, @Amiga72: Interesting thing (different vendors under the same product listing)! That would make any testing quite useless, if we never know what product (vendor) we really get.

@Skeets: You made me look closer at my sticker, and taataaaa, it is different from the photos here! Also the cable protector (the rubber thing at the housing) is different than on the photo.

Bad thing. If FT switches vendors in the same product listing, than the product reviews are not worth much.
Btw, a few days ago I send two battery reviews, one good, one bad. The positive one was approved, the negative not. I hope there isn't a pattern.
#9 (permalink)      4/19/2014 7:17:01 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Amiga72
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I can tell you that 2 of the dodgy ones I had where model:HLT-USB, now I found a way to fix them after months of them sitting in my box of knackered bits all due to a friend screaming at me his xbox went tits up and we reflowed it in the oven and that got me thinking what if the original flow wasn`t quite hot enough or the boards weren`t in long enough or they cooled too quickly and due to that line of thinking, below is what followed. ;)

you need to take the casing off then gentle pull 510 connector wires out straight same with usb cable end, as you dont want to melt them, now take a cooks blow torch and holding charger in other hand by usb cord move blow torch back and forth across componet side medium paced so as to be constanly moving. There needs to be about 3-4 inches between blow torch and circuit board, do about 8-12 times back and forth let it cool and now hopefully its reflowed and should be working correctly. :)

Its worth a try if you get one thats not behaving as you think it should, needs shorting or is stuck on red light, its amazing what problems a dodgy bit of flow/solder can cause.

Edited on 4/19/2014 at 7:49 AM. Reason:
#10 (permalink)      10/20/2014 5:16:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
JPBel
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cris_at_home wrote:


A charger does not charge & measure at the same time. It is constantly switching between charging & measuring what the current cell value is.

What make you beleive this ?

The basic things a Li charge controller need to do is:
- regulate the voltage(at all time)
- limit the current(in the first phase)
- stop charging when the current get below a pre-determine value.( usualy when current draw is < 3% of the charging rate)

Pass the first phase the controller DO NOT lower the current.
It is the battery that draw less and less current as the battery get more an more charged.

The controller is constantly monitoring the current as it charge the battery, to know when to stop but also to limit the current in first phase.
There is no such thing as "stop charging to read the voltage or the current".

Edit:
You are right about the fact that different chargers might terminate the charging process earlier than others.
The pre-determines % of current value can be different from controller to controller.

B.T.W.
The led blinking is only an attempt to give a visual of the charge state of the battery.


Edited on 10/20/2014 at 5:51 PM. Reason:
#11 (permalink)      11/22/2014 2:13:14 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Jdeed
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hmmm...I have noticed this charger does take longer to charge than my original charger, But I have not tested the amount of volts after it is done charging. The batteries blue light does turn off before both my chargers say the are finished charging. I will have to test the charge after it is complete with both chargers and see if there is a difference.